Oaxaca: wedding parade on a Saturday night

Oaxaca-wedding in the Zocalo-the brideOaxaca Zocalo Saturday night: a wedding parade with an elegantly dressed crowd of hundreds of people walking from the cathedral to a city hall reception. Beautiful models or at least the model-thin. Abuelas holding the arms of grandsons. A dozen men in yarmulkes: signs of vitality for a religion the Spanish inquisition tried to erase.

Oaxaca-wedding in the Zocalo-the groomThe groom in white pants, blue and white striped shirt, his white collar framing a striped-silk bow tie. The bride in white, her red stillettos peeking out from the long skirt. Three trolley cars follow carrying the weary, the lazy, the infirm. Gum-selling kids holding tight hitch a ride on the running board.

Oaxaca-wedding in the Zocalo copyBobbing candleholders in each hand, mini tissue paper cages protecting the light. Opaque white stretched over delicate wooden frames. Dancing like glowing kites, flames a secret hidden in hearts, half-moons and globes.

Oaxaca-wedding in the ZocaloTwo brass bands blaring. Dancing girls in native costumes with long, swirling skirts, flower baskets balanced on their heads. Teen boys in black t-shirts join the dance. A long-nosed mask on the Cousin It figure, his costume dripping strips of many colors. Fabrics fly as he spins like a dwarf mummer.

Oaxaca-wedding in the Zocalo-the puppetsFireworks on the ground and in the sky. Onlookers rush across the square for the free spectacle. Not a brown face in the crowd except those of the dancers and musicians. Another alliance between a Peninsulare and a Creole, perhaps, keeping the Spanish bloodline pure for another generation.

A lone janitor follows the parade sweeping the remains with his handmade twig broom. His face is brown.


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